Active leak? 24/7 response

Skylights leak atthe flashing, not the glass

A curb-mounted unit is a series of laps, each one shedding onto the one below it. Get a single lap the wrong way round and no amount of sealant will save it. We diagnose from the roof and the ceiling at the same time, then fix the detail rather than the symptom.

4 in.
Curb above the roof plane
IBC 2405
Laminated inboard lite
≈40 in.
Annual rain to shed

S-01 · Curb-mounted skylight — section

Scale NTS

light well4 in. minIRC R308.6.8glazing unitunit framedeckinsulationskirt laps overmembrane upturnframed curbEVERY LAP SHEDS DOWNHILL · UPPER MATERIAL ALWAYS OVER LOWERSealant is the second line of defence. The geometry of the laps is the first.

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4 in.

Minimum curb height above the finished roof — IRC R308.6.8

IBC 2405

Sloped glazing: laminated inboard lite over occupied space

≈40 in.

Average annual rainfall this detail has to shed in the DMV

24/7

Emergency response for an active leak

Diagnosis

Four places the water is actually getting in

Three of these are leaks and one of them is not. Telling them apart before anything is opened up saves a roof from being chased for a fault that was never there.

S-03 · Leak paths — curb section

Scale NTS

1234Water travels along framing before it appears on a ceiling.The wet patch is almost never directly beneath the fault that caused it.
  • 1

    Reversed or short flashing lap

    Head flashing tucked under instead of over, or a lap too short for wind-driven rain. Water runs behind the metal and into the curb.

  • 2

    Membrane termination on the curb

    The upturn stops too low, the termination bar is loose, or the roofer never turned the membrane up at all. This is the most common fault we find on retrofit curbs.

  • 3

    Perimeter glazing seal

    Gaskets hardened, the bedding compound cracked, or the glazing bead lifted. Water enters at the glass line and appears at the curb corners.

  • 4

    Not a leak — condensation

    Water on the inboard lite in cold weather with no rain is a moisture and ventilation problem, or a failed cavity seal. Chasing flashing will never fix it.

Detail 02

What goes over your head has its own rules

Overhead glazing is treated differently from a wall window for one reason: gravity. The make-up is chosen so neither lite can end up on the floor.

S-02 · Sloped glazing make-up

Scale NTS

SKY ABOVEROOM BELOWArhail · debris · snow load1234fullytemperedLow-E on ②argoninterlayerlaminatedunitthicknessThe inboard lite is laminated so a fracture cannot fall.Sloped and overhead glazing rules — IBC 2405, IRC R308.6.2. Break the outboardlite and the unit is finished; break the inboard lite and the interlayer stillholds every fragment above the room.

Outboard: fully tempered

Takes the hail, the branch and the snow load. When it does go it dices into small blunt fragments rather than shards.

Cavity: coated and gas filled

Low-E on surface two and an argon fill. A skylight sees far more solar gain than a wall window, so the coating specification earns its place here.

Inboard: laminated

Two plies bonded to an interlayer. Fracture it and the fragments stay bonded above the room — which is exactly why the code asks for it.

Scope

Skylights we repair and replace

Glass, seals, flashing and curb. Where the curb is the problem, replacing the glass on its own only buys you a slower leak.

01

Fixed skylights

Non-venting units in curb-mounted and deck-mounted frames. The most common thing we replace, and the one where a glass-only swap is most often the right answer.

02

Venting skylights

Manual crank and motorised units. Glass, gaskets and the operator all get looked at, because a unit that no longer closes fully will leak however good the flashing is.

03

Tubular daylighting

Dome, tube and ceiling diffuser. Failures are usually at the dome seal or the roof flashing collar rather than in the tube itself.

04

Ridge and continuous runs

Linear systems on commercial roofs and high-end houses. Panels are sequenced so the run is never left open, and every joint gets its own gasket detail.

05

Custom and architectural

Non-rectangular, raked and feature glazing. Templated on the roof, because a shape taken off a drawing rarely matches what was actually built.

06

Curb and flashing rebuilds

Where the curb is too low, rotted, or was never flashed properly. Replacing glass over a bad curb just buys you a slower leak.

Method

How a skylight job runs

01

Inspect both sides

Ceiling and light well from inside, curb, flashing, membrane and glass from the roof. Photographed, because the wet patch and the fault are usually in different places.

02

Measure and specify

Daylight opening, unit thickness, coating position and the sloped-glazing make-up required over an occupied space. Templated when the shape is not a simple rectangle.

03

Correct the detail

Old glass out, curb inspected for rot and adequate height, membrane upturn and flashing laps rebuilt if they are the actual cause.

04

Glaze and water test

New unit bedded on a continuous seal, skirt lapped correctly over the upturn, then hosed and checked from inside before we pack up.

Warning signs

What to look for before it reaches the drywall

  • 01Yellow or brown rings on the ceiling around the opening, dry to the touch between storms.
  • 02Active dripping in wind-driven rain but not in still rain — that pattern points at a lap, not a hole.
  • 03Fog or condensation between the panes of a double-glazed unit, meaning the cavity seal has failed.
  • 04Cracks or chips in the glass, which under thermal stress and snow load will run rather than stay put.
  • 05Paint lifting or drywall bubbling in the light well below the opening.
  • 06A musty smell near the opening with no visible water, usually meaning wet insulation in the curb.
  • 07A noticeable draught or cold band under the unit on a winter night.
  • 08Split sealant, corroded fasteners or lifted flashing visible from the roof.

What this climate does to a roof detail

Summer surface temperatures on a dark roof run far above ambient and then drop overnight, working every sealant joint and every fastener. Spring and summer thunderstorms drive rain sideways, which is what finds a lap that is technically shingled but too short. Winter brings freeze-thaw and ice damming at the eaves, forcing water uphill under coverings that only ever shed downhill.

Glass only, or the whole unit?

If the curb is sound and tall enough, the flashing is properly lapped and the frame is straight, the glass is the only thing that needs to change. If the curb sits too low, is rotted, or was flashed badly in the first place, we say so — putting new glass over that detail is work you will be paying someone to do again.

Questions

Skylight repair, answered

Nine times out of ten it is not the glass. The usual faults are a flashing lap that runs the wrong way or is too short for wind-driven rain, a roofing membrane that was never turned properly up the curb face, a curb sitting too low above the roof surface, or a perimeter glazing seal that has hardened and split. Water then tracks along the framing before it shows on a ceiling, which is why the wet patch is rarely under the fault. Inspecting from the roof and from inside at the same time is what separates the four.

No. Overhead glass sits above people, and a crack in it is a fracture waiting to propagate under thermal stress, snow load or wind pressure. Adhesives and films do not restore the strength of a cracked pane, they just hide it. We replace the glazing with a compliant sloped-glazing unit and keep your existing frame, curb and flashing where they are sound.

Because of what happens when it breaks. Sloped and overhead glazing rules — IBC 2405 and IRC R308.6.2 for dwellings — call for the inboard lite of a multiple-layer unit to be laminated, so a fracture is held on the interlayer rather than dropping into the room below. The outboard lite is normally fully tempered to take hail and debris. Between them the unit fails safely from either direction.

Yes, with the fall protection, anchorage and staging the pitch and height call for, plus roof protection so we do not damage the covering getting to the opening. Houses, multi-storey buildings and commercial roofs are all routine for us.

Almost always, and it is the moment to do it. A modern replacement can carry a Low-E coating on surface two, an argon fill and a warm-edge spacer, on top of the laminated inboard lite the code requires. Overhead glazing sees far more solar load than a wall window, so the coating specification matters more here than anywhere else in the house.

Most glass replacements are a single visit of two to four hours depending on roof access and how much flashing work comes with it. Custom units take three to five business days to fabricate after measurement. For an active leak we can weatherproof the opening the same day and come back with the glass.

If several went in at the same time and more than one is showing seal failure or flashing wear, doing them together means one set-up on the roof, one measure and one visit. If only one has failed and the others are sound, there is no reason to disturb them. We tell you the condition of each and let you decide.

Both, though repair and glass replacement is the bulk of what we do. A new opening means cutting the deck, framing and heading off the structure, building a curb to the right height, flashing it into the roof covering and finishing the light well inside — so it is coordinated with your roofer and whoever is doing the interior work rather than done in isolation.

Stop the water first

We can weatherproof an active leak the same day and come back with the glass once it is measured. Free on-site estimates across DC, Maryland and Northern Virginia.

A ceiling stain is already the second symptom

By the time water shows on drywall it has been in the framing and the insulation for a while.

Call (703) 470-7867